UK Alarmed by Return of Ultra-Thin Models

The fashion industry has always been a mirror of societal trends, reflecting and often dictating cultural standards of beauty. For a significant period, the industry seemed to be moving towards a more inclusive and body-positive future, with a growing number of brands embracing models of all shapes, sizes, and ethnicities. However, a recent and alarming trend has emerged in the United Kingdom, suggesting a regression to the controversial "super skinny" aesthetic of the past. This subtle but perceptible shift has not gone unnoticed by the public, leading to a notable rise in complaints to advertising watchdogs and reigniting a fierce debate about the responsibility of brands and the long-term impact on body image and mental health. The return of the ultra-thin model, a silhouette that many hoped had been relegated to history, is now a concerning reality, signaling a potential rollback of years of progress in the fight for body diversity.
The recent surge in complaints to the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in the UK serves as a powerful indicator of this growing public unease. Where once the focus was on a more realistic and healthy body type, a new wave of advertisements, particularly in high fashion and fast fashion, appears to be once again featuring models with extremely slender frames. These models, often shot in ways that emphasize their thinness—through stark lighting, specific poses, and clothing that hangs loosely on their bodies—are creating a new kind of visual language that many find deeply troubling. The complaints are not just from concerned parents or health advocates; they are from a cross-section of the public who feel that these images are not only unrepresentative but also actively harmful. The sheer volume of these complaints suggests that this is not an isolated issue but a widespread concern that is gaining momentum.
This development feels particularly jarring given the significant strides that have been made in recent years. The era of "heroin chic" in the 1990s, characterized by emaciated models and a gaunt aesthetic, was met with such a profound backlash that the fashion industry was forced to re-evaluate its standards. This led to a period of greater awareness and a push for more diverse body types on the runway and in print. Social media, with its democratization of content creation and the rise of influencers promoting body positivity, also played a crucial role. Brands like Aerie, with its unretouched campaigns, and Savage X Fenty, which championed models of all sizes, were heralded as pioneers, setting a new standard for what was considered beautiful and aspirational. The current trend, therefore, feels like a betrayal of this progress and a worrying return to a dangerous and unsustainable ideal.
The reasons behind this resurgence are complex and multifaceted. Some fashion insiders argue that it is a cyclical trend, an inevitable swing of the pendulum away from the overtly inclusive aesthetic that has dominated for a while. They suggest that the current focus is on a sleek, minimalist silhouette that naturally lends itself to a thinner frame. Others point to a new generation of designers and creative directors who are perhaps less mindful of the historical context and the societal damage caused by the "super skinny" trend. There is also the economic pressure on brands to create content that stands out in a crowded digital landscape. In an age of endless scrolling, a shocking or controversial image can often garner more attention than a universally accepted one. The shock value of an ultra-thin model, whether intentional or not, can be a powerful tool for generating clicks and conversation.
The impact of these images is far-reaching, particularly on a generation that is constantly exposed to curated and often unrealistic content on social media. Young people, especially, are susceptible to the subtle but persistent messaging that thinness is a prerequisite for beauty and success. When they see their favorite brands promoting models with a body type that is unattainable for the vast majority of the population, it can lead to a host of negative outcomes, including low self-esteem, body dissatisfaction, and, in some cases, the development of eating disorders. Health professionals and mental health charities have been vocal in their concern, warning that this trend could undo years of work to promote a healthier relationship with food and body image. The complaints to the ASA are not just about aesthetics; they are about public health and the ethical responsibility of a multi-billion-pound industry.
In response to the growing number of complaints, the ASA finds itself in a difficult position. The organization has a mandate to ensure that all advertising is legal, decent, honest, and truthful. However, the definition of what constitutes a "thin" or "unhealthy" model is often subjective and can be challenging to regulate. While the ASA has previously banned specific ads for using models who appeared "unhealthily thin," the current issue is more pervasive and nuanced. It is not just about a single, egregious ad, but a broader shift in aesthetic that is being adopted by multiple brands. This makes it a systemic problem rather than an isolated one, requiring a more comprehensive response from the industry as a whole, not just a one-off ban. The pressure is now on the ASA to develop new guidelines or interpretations of its existing rules to effectively address this emerging trend.
The public outcry and the rise in complaints suggest that consumers are becoming increasingly sophisticated in their understanding of the power of advertising and are no longer willing to accept harmful beauty standards without a fight. The conversation around this issue has moved beyond simply "Is she too thin?" to a deeper interrogation of what messages brands are sending and what values they are promoting. It is a demand for accountability and a push for the fashion industry to be a force for good, not a purveyor of damaging ideals. The hope is that this new wave of public scrutiny will force brands to once again re-evaluate their casting choices and their creative direction, and to remember that true beauty is not found in a single, narrow body type, but in the rich diversity of the human form. The return of the "super skinny" model may be a fleeting trend, but the public's response to it shows that the battle for body positivity is far from over.
Source@BBC